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World Cultivation of Coffee

the spread of coffee cultivation

Ancient Arab Coffee Tribesman

It was probably the Arabs of southern Yemen who were the first commercial growers and traders in coffee back in the first millennium.

Coffee was first cultivated commercially in the Yemen area between 1250 and 1600 when extensive planting of the coffea arabica plant occurred. By the end of the 13th century, coffee drinking had become almost part of the Muslim religion and wherever the religion of Islam went, coffee was eventually to follow – to India, North Africa and the Eastern Mediterranean.

Initially, however, the Arabs jealously guarded their precious bean crop and made every effort to prevent other countries acquiring their coffee plants. They would not allow coffee beans to be taken out of the country unless they had first been dried in sunlight or boiled in water to ensure the seeds could not germinate elsewhere. In fact, it is said that no coffee seed sprouted outside Africa or Arabia until the 1600s. As a result of this, for many centuries Yemen was the world's primary source of coffee.

An Indian pilgrim known as Bapa Budan is credited with smuggling some green beans back to his homeland in 1600AD and the plants flourished there. Despite their best efforts, the Arabs could not stop the smuggling of fertile coffee beans, and plants were soon being grown throughout Northern Africa. At the start of the 17th century, coffee beans were being traded with Italy via Venice – then a major trading port with North Africa.

Dutch Coffee Merchants

coffee spreads to europe

Coffee growing was also starting to be carried out by some of the European countries – initially in their colonies in Africa and later in their West Indian and East Indian territories. It was from the Caribbean Islands and (French) Guyana, that coffee plantations were soon to spread to Brazil and Central America from early in the 18th century.

The Dutch managed to get some plants out from the Yemeni port of Mocha in the 17th century and started growing the plants first in Ceylon (Sri-Lanka) and then in their Indonesian colonies. It was not until the late 19th century that the French introduced coffee growing to French Indo-China (Vietnam).
Coffee is believed to have arrived in North America in 1607 when Captain John Smith helped to found the colony of Virginia at Jamestown.

It was the Dutch, however, who, with a coffee plant smuggled out of the Arab port of Mocha, became the first to transport and cultivate coffee commercially in 1690. They founded the East India coffee trade by taking the coffee tree to Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and their East Indian colony, Java, and as a result, Amsterdam became a trading centre for coffee. Coffee was becoming a precious product fit for Royal gifts and, in 1714, the mayor of Amsterdam sent a young coffee tree to King Louis XIV of France as a present. These seedlings were entrusted by the King to the botanists of the King's Royal Botanical Garden (now the "Jardin des Plantes").

 

gabriel mathiel de clieu

Coffee SeedlingA young naval officer, Gabriel Mathieu de Clieu, was in Paris on leave from Martinique - a French colony in the Caribbean – and, imagining that Martinique could become a Dutch Java, he requested clippings from his King's tree. Permission was, however, denied. Determined, de Clieu led a moonlight raid of the King's Garden and managed to steal a seedling from the greenhouses. De Clieu then set sail for Martinique only to discover the worst was still to come.

On the return journey to Martinique, de Clieu was to encounter a number of setbacks. A "basely jealous" passenger attempted to steal his coffee seedling and, when unable to get the plant away from him, tore off a branch. The ship was then attacked and almost captured by pirates. Getting over that, it suffered a violent storm and when the skies became clear they became becalmed. Water grew scarce, but the young coffee tree was kept alive because de Clieu used part of his own tiny water ration to water it.

On arriving in the Caribbean, de Clieu planted the tree on his own estate in Martinique where, under armed guard, it thrived and was to become the forerunner of a total of about 18 million trees by the year 1777. It is, in fact, the descendents of this plant, which ended up producing the entire Western coffee industry.

The French and the Dutch were, like the Arabs before them, anxious to protect their monopoly of coffee cultivation. Brazil's emperor, however, were after a cut of the coffee market and, in 1727, he send Lt. Col. Francisco de Melo Palheta to French Guiana to mediate a border dispute between the French and Dutch. Not only did the Colonel settle the dispute but he also managed to initiate an affair between him and the governor's wife. The plan paid off, as for a farewell gift at a state dinner, she presented him with a sly token of affection - a bouquet in which she hid cuttings of a coffee plant. It is said that from these shoots the world's greatest coffee empire and the great coffee plantations of Latin America emerged.
By 1800 Brazil's monster harvests would turn coffee from a drink for the elite into an everyday drink for the people the world over.